How Do You Frame Landscape Photography Prints?
Editorial Team · November 2, 2026

Last Updated: November 2, 2026
Quick Summary
Framing landscape prints starts with measuring the paper edge to edge, then cutting a mat opening 3 mm smaller per side than the image area so the border overlaps paper, never the picture. Add 50 to 75 mm of mat per side, then choose UV-filtering glazing and acid-free materials to slow fading.
- Measure the print in millimeters before buying any frame, and never cut a print to fit a frame.
- Subtract 3 mm from each side of the image area to set the mat opening.
- Acrylic weighs about 40 percent of glass and is safer over beds and sofas.
- Keep every material touching the print acid-free: mat, backing, tape and glazing.
- Hang with two hooks so the print center sits 1450 to 1550 mm from the floor.
Table of Contents
- Step 1: Measure the Print Before You Buy a Frame
- Step 2: How to Mat a Photo Print Without Cropping the Image
- Step 3: Choosing the Right Picture Frame Size for Large Prints
- Step 4: Glass vs Acrylic for Picture Frames: Which Belongs on a Landscape Print?
- Step 5: Archival Framing for Photographs: Materials That Prevent Fading
- Step 6: Matching the Frame to a Landscape Image and the Room It Hangs In
- Step 7: Hanging a Framed Landscape Print Securely
- Order a Print and Frame It With Confidence
- Frequently Asked Questions
Step 1: Measure the Print Before You Buy a Frame
Framing landscape prints starts with a tape measure, not a frame catalog. Measure the paper itself, edge to edge, and write down both numbers: height first, then width. A landscape print is wider than it is tall, so the width figure usually leads.
Do not trust the listed size on the order page. Paper trims vary by a fraction, and a mat cut to the wrong opening ruins the board. Measure twice before you order.
Before you shop, note three numbers:
- Print width and height in millimeters, to the nearest 1 mm
- Image area, meaning the printed picture inside any white paper border
- Border width, if the print has one
That third number decides everything in Step 2. A print with a 25 mm paper border needs a smaller frame opening than the same image printed edge to edge.
Watch out: buying a frame first and cutting the print to fit is the most common and most expensive mistake here. Always fit the frame to the print.
Step 2: How to Mat a Photo Print Without Cropping the Image
Matting a photo print means placing it behind a cut board so the whole image stays visible.

Here is the measurement method we recommend:
- Measure the image area, not the paper.
- Subtract 3 mm from each side to get the mat opening.
- Add 50 to 75 mm of mat on every side for a standard border.
- Add the mat border to the opening to get the frame size.
A 300 x 450 mm image with a 60 mm mat on all sides needs a 420 x 570 mm frame opening. Keep the math on paper before you cut.
Cut the opening from the back of the mat board, and use a fresh blade. A dull blade tears the surface and the tear shows at the bevel.
Step 3: Choosing the Right Picture Frame Size for Large Prints
The right picture frame size for large prints leaves breathing room. A frame that hugs the image looks cramped on a big wall. A frame with a wide mat looks deliberate.
Use this guide as a starting point:
| Print width | Mat border per side | Suggested frame width |
|---|---|---|
| Up to 300 mm | 40-50 mm | Print width + 100 mm |
| 300-600 mm | 50-75 mm | Print width + 130 mm |
| Over 600 mm | 75-100 mm | Print width + 180 mm |
These are starting points, not rules. A panoramic print often wants a wider mat at the top and bottom to balance the long shape.
Large frames also need stronger moulding. Thin metal frames bow under wide glass, so step up to a deeper profile once you pass 600 mm.
Step 4: Glass vs Acrylic for Picture Frames: Which Belongs on a Landscape Print?
Glass vs acrylic for picture frames comes down to weight, safety, optical quality, and budget. For a landscape print, the decision usually hinges on size and where the frame will hang, not on which material sounds more premium.
Here is how the two compare in practice:
| Factor | Glass | Acrylic |
|---|---|---|
| Weight | Heavy; roughly 2.5 times the weight of acrylic at the same thickness | Light; about 40 percent of glass weight |
| Safety | Shatters into sharp pieces | Cracks but resists shattering; safer over beds and sofas |
| Scratch resistance | High; resists everyday scuffs | Lower; dust and grit can leave fine scratches |
| Static | None | Attracts dust; needs a soft cloth and acrylic cleaner |
| Optical clarity | Excellent | Excellent at standard grades; slightly softer at budget grades |
| Cost | Lower at small sizes | Lower at large sizes once shipping and breakage risk are counted |
For a large landscape print, acrylic usually wins on weight alone. A big sheet of glass can pull a hanging wire loose or stress a thin moulding.
Both materials come in standard and UV-filtering grades. Standard clear glazing lets ultraviolet light through, and UV light is what fades inks over time.
One trade-off: acrylic picks up static and dust, so clean it with a soft cloth and a plain acrylic cleaner. Never use ammonia glass cleaner on acrylic, and never spray cleaner directly onto either surface; spray the cloth, then wipe.
If the print will hang in a humid room such as a bathroom or a covered porch, acrylic also handles moisture swings better than glass, which can fog on the inside if the frame is not sealed.
Step 5: Archival Framing for Photographs: Materials That Prevent Fading
Archival framing for photographs means every material that touches the print is acid-free and stable. That covers the mat board, the backing board, the mounting tape, and the glazing.
Fading comes from three sources: UV light, heat, and acid migration from cheap paper products. You can control all three.
- Mat board: choose cotton rag or buffered alpha-cellulose board labeled acid-free
- Backing: use acid-free foam board, not corrugated cardboard
- Mounting: use photo-safe tape or corner pockets, never rubber cement or masking tape
- Glazing: pick UV-filtering glass or acrylic
- Spacing: keep the print off the glazing with a mat or spacer, so condensation cannot touch the surface
The Library of Congress guidance on care and handling of photographs is a solid reference for storage conditions and material standards.
Hang the frame away from direct sun and heat vents. Even archival materials slow fading rather than stop it.
Step 6: Matching the Frame to a Landscape Image and the Room It Hangs In
Frame choice is a design decision, so treat it like one. The goal is to make the landscape print look intentional on the wall, not to match the sofa exactly. Use the image first, then the room, then the mat as the bridge between them.
Start with the image:
- High-contrast images such as a snowy scene or a dark forest shot suit a black or dark wood frame with a white mat. The dark frame echoes the shadows and keeps the eye on the print.
- Soft, bright images such as a coastal or desert print suit a light wood, white, or natural frame. A heavy black frame can overpower a pale image.
- Warm-toned images such as autumn foliage suit walnut, oak, or bronze frames. Pull one color from the image and repeat it in the frame or mat.
- Cool-toned images such as blue-hour or water scenes suit black, white, or brushed metal frames.
Then check the room:
- Warm rooms with wood furniture take natural wood or bronze frames.
- Cool, modern rooms take black, white, or brushed metal.
- Small rooms benefit from a white mat and a thin frame, which keeps the print feeling light.
- Large rooms with tall walls can carry a wider mat and a deeper profile without looking heavy.
When the image and the room conflict, let the mat do the work. A white or off-white mat separates a warm image from a cool wall and keeps both looking deliberate. A colored mat is riskier: it dates faster and can fight the print, so reserve it for a room where the color already appears.
Mat width is part of the design, not just the measurement. A common pattern is a mat border of 2 to 3 inches on standard prints and 3 to 4 inches on large prints.
If the print hangs near a window, pick UV glazing and a frame that can handle humidity swings. Wood moves with moisture, so a sealed backing helps. And if the print will move between rooms over time, choose a neutral frame and a white mat so it works anywhere.
Step 7: Hanging a Framed Landscape Print Securely
Hang the frame so the center of the print sits at eye level, roughly 1450 to 1550 mm from the floor. Above a sofa, leave 150 to 250 mm of wall between the frame bottom and the furniture back.
Use two hooks, not one. Two hooks spread the load and keep the frame level. For heavy frames, drive the hooks into wall studs or use rated wall anchors.
Follow the Consumer Product Safety Commission guidance on anchoring furniture and wall items for heavy pieces, especially in homes with kids or pets.
Check the hanging hardware on the frame itself. Replace thin wire with rated hanging wire, and add a bumper at each bottom corner so the frame sits off the wall and stays level.
Order a Print and Frame It With Confidence
Framing a landscape print is a measuring job before it is a design job. Get the print dimensions, mat opening, and glazing right, and the rest is style.
The harder part is finding a print worth the frame. Brian Farber Photography offers photographic prints of Japan, Alaska, Colorado, and Michigan landscapes, plus Disney theme park images, so you can pick the scene first and frame it second.
Browse the Brian Farber Photography collection to find a landscape print for your wall.
Frequently Asked Questions
Should landscape photography prints be matted?
Yes, matting is the standard choice for fine art landscape prints. A mat keeps the print from pressing against the glazing, which prevents condensation from reaching the paper. It also adds a neutral border that separates a busy image from the frame and lets the eye settle on the photograph. Standard mats run 2 to 4 inches on each side, with wider borders on larger prints. Use mat board labeled acid-free or conservation grade, since ordinary cardboard can stain the print over time.
What frame works best for landscape photography prints?
Thin, simple frames in black, natural wood, or brushed metal let the landscape carry the room. A frame that competes with the image pulls attention away from the horizon and color. For large prints, a frame with at least a 1-inch face and a rigid backing holds the piece flat. Match the frame's tone to the room: warm wood in a room with wood furniture, black in a modern space. Whatever you pick, confirm the frame depth fits your mat and backing stack.
How do you keep a photo print from touching the glass?
A mat does this job. The mat's thickness, usually 4-ply or about 1.5 mm, creates a gap between the print surface and the glazing. Skip the mat and the print can stick to glass in humid conditions, and the emulsion may lift when you try to separate them. If you want a frameless look, use a frame with a built-in spacer or ask for a shadow box. Never press a print flat against glass and call it done.
How do you protect a landscape photography print from fading?
Fading comes from ultraviolet light and from acids in cheap mat board and backing. Use glazing with UV filtering, keep the framed print out of direct sun, and specify acid-free mats and backing. Archival framing for photographs also means hinging the print with paper or linen tape, not masking tape or glue, so it can be removed later. A framed print under UV glazing and away from a bright window holds its color far longer than one facing the sun.